Was I treated well in Thailand?
If you ask me whether Thailand was welcoming to me as a woman of color, my answer is yes.
That is the simple answer.
The more interesting answer took me years to understand.
I had kind neighbors. I felt safe. I had coworkers, friends, favorite restaurants, familiar roads, and the kind of routines you only develop after living somewhere long enough for the novelty to wear off.
Thailand became home in the ordinary sense of the word.
I still knew I was not Thai.
Those two things never felt mutually exclusive to me.
I could be included and still be foreign.
I could be cared about and still know there were parts of the culture I would always experience from the outside.
That is really what this article is about.
Not whether Thailand is “racist.” I do not think that is a fair summary of my experience there.
Thailand does have a strong cultural preference for lighter skin, something you see in beauty standards, advertising, and everyday comments about appearance. That is real.
But my day-to-day experience was not one of walking around feeling targeted because I was brown.
The difference I noticed more often was between being treated well and actually being part of the group.
Working in Thailand taught me things traveling there never could
I moved to Thailand in 2018, first as a volunteer English teacher and later as a science teacher in a Thai public school.
That distinction matters.
A tourist can spend weeks in Thailand without ever learning what a school considers professional, how a workplace hierarchy operates, or which small behaviors carry more meaning than they would at home.
Employee me had to learn those things.
At my school, presentation mattered.
Teachers were expected to arrive looking put together, follow the dress code, and treat appearance as part of professionalism.
One of my Filipino coworkers told me that the school deducted part of her pay after she arrived with wet hair from a morning shower because administrators considered it improper.
I was not in the room when that decision was made, so I can only tell the story the way she told it to me.
What stayed with me was not the wet hair.
It was how many tiny rules you do not know exist until you are no longer visiting.
The rules you notice as an employee are not always the rules you notice as a traveler.
That was one of the biggest differences between traveling through Thailand and actually building a life there.
Passport can matter a lot when you are looking for work
This is where my experience becomes less about how people treated me socially and more about how the foreign-teacher job market worked.
Foreign teachers were not always evaluated on the same things.
Passport mattered.
Accent mattered.
Whether a school considered you a “native English speaker” mattered.
Credentials mattered.
And yes, appearance could matter too.
Thailand has a well-known preference for lighter skin, and that preference can show up in beauty standards and sometimes in how employers imagine the “ideal” foreign teacher.
But I think it is too simplistic to reduce the whole system to race.
A white teacher with the “wrong” passport could have a harder time than a brown American teacher with the “right” one.
A Filipino teacher might be highly experienced, speak excellent English, and still be offered less than somebody with an American, British, Canadian, Australian, or other favored passport.
That is why passport is such an important part of this conversation.
I had an American passport.
I also had a science background that included pre-med coursework and a Chemistry minor, and I was willing to teach science instead of only applying for general English positions.
In my own job search, I believe those things helped me.
Would my experience have been exactly the same with another passport?
Probably not.
Would it have been exactly the same if I were darker-skinned?
I cannot know.
That is why I do not use my own experience to promise another woman of color that her experience will look exactly like mine.
My daily life did not feel like one long conversation about race
Most days, I was not walking around Thailand thinking about being a woman of color.
I was thinking about work.
Or dinner.
Or whether it was going to rain before I got home.
Or why somebody had scheduled another school event that everybody seemed to know about except the foreign teachers.
That was my life.
People were generally kind to me. I felt comfortable moving through my community. I had Thai coworkers I cared about, foreign coworkers I became close to, favorite markets, routines, and places where people recognized me.
People also rarely assumed I was American.
In Thailand, I was sometimes read as mixed Thai, Filipino, or Indian.
Then I would speak.
Then they would hear my accent.
Then they would learn my passport.
And suddenly the category changed.
I found that interesting more than threatening.
It showed me how quickly people build a story about you from appearance, language, and nationality.
But it was not the defining feature of my life there.
Thailand became ordinary.
That mattered more.
My friend Ren helped me understand the belonging part
My friend Ren is white and American.
On paper, you could assume she would have had an easier path to belonging than I did.
But belonging is not that simple.
Ren lived in Thailand for years. She studied Thai seriously enough to speak, read, and write it. Her husband is Thai. She built a life that had very little to do with the short-term expat bubble.
She preferred a simple Thai-style house and a daily routine that made sense to her, even when other foreigners did not understand why she lived that way.
Still, there was one word that could remind her that other people saw a boundary she could not study her way across.
“No matter how well I speak Thai, I am still a farang at the end of the day.”
Farang is a common Thai word for a Westerner, especially someone of European descent. It is not automatically an insult and is often used neutrally.
For Ren, though, it could still underline something important.
You can learn the language.
You can marry into the culture.
You can understand the jokes.
You can build your entire life there.
And somebody can still use one word that reminds you that you are not from there.
That is not necessarily rejection.
It is a boundary.
And boundaries are part of living abroad too.
Being welcomed and being part of the group are different things
This is the part I wish more conversations about moving abroad talked about.
People often ask whether a country is friendly.
That is useful.
It is also not the whole question.
A place can be friendly to you without ever seeing you as one of its own.
You can know the language and still miss a cultural reference everyone else understands immediately.
You can have Thai friends and still notice moments when the Thai people shift into a conversation, joke, or expectation that you are not fully inside of.
You can be invited.
You can be cared for.
You can even be loved.
And you can still be foreign.
I do not say that sadly.
Thailand gave me five years of ordinary life, friendships, work, routine, frustration, laughter, and more memories than I could fit into one article.
I never needed Thailand to pretend I was Thai for those years to matter.
I think the mistake is assuming that if you are treated well, you should automatically feel that you belong completely.
Those are different experiences.
For me, Thailand was welcoming.
It was familiar.
It became home.
And I was still a foreigner living there.
All of those things were true at the same time.
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What has belonging looked like for you?
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